CHAPTER VII.
The Great Decline and Subsequent Revival
THE early Dodge City boomers never cut the cloth scant when
fitting the garment for general utility.
They had no narrow vision of the prospect, and the perspective
appeared the same width at both ends. As early as 1885 Dodge City
was mentioned in the "Larned Optic" as destined to be a railroad
center, which prophecy modern times has seen well fulfilled; and
it was continually spoken of as a future metropolis, which surmise
is still a healthy inspiration, gradually ripening to
fulfillment.
Electric lights illuminated the vision of the mind as well as
the eyes, of the early boomer; and when the oldtimer set about
promoting an enterprise, he had the consciousness of success. If
the thing did not succeed at the time, it was the incentive for
the revival of the scheme at a later date. So, with her citizens
imbued with such a spirit, and with the impetus given by the
prodigious business activities of the previous ten years, it is
not strange that the beginning of the year 1886, saw Dodge City
becoming modernized. Street grades had been established, with a
view to future curbing and paving; a Board of Trade was organized
in April, 1886, and was conducted with all the grave formality of
later times and older communities, and with the same earnestness
in promoting enterprises; about the same time, the first electric
light company was organized, and also a telephone company, though
the latter did not fully succeed in working out all its plans till
some years later. Free mail delivery was promised from Washington,
as soon as the local post office receipts reached ten thousand
dollars yearly, but this promise did not materialize till the
spring of 1910, twenty-four years after it was given.
-316-
In this same year (1886), a waterworks system was also
installed, and was first tested in the latter part of January,
1887. The "Globe" says: "There were six hose attached to six
hydrants, in different parts of the city, all throwing water at
the same time. The hose was three inches in diameter, and the
nozzle one inch. At the hydrants in the south part of the city, it
is estimated that streams, ranging from eighty to one hundred feet
high, were thrown; while on the hills north, the power was not so
great, the streams reaching a height of only fifty or sixty feet.
The water was kept on for twenty minutes, and the people were well
satisfied with the test. With this excellent system of waterworks,
and with our three hose companies and hook and ladder company,
which are in constant training, Dodge City can defy the fire
fiend, in the future." Dodge had cause to feel pride and security
in her new fire fighting equipment, as she had experienced two
disastrous fires before the establishment of the waterworks
system. The first of these fires occurred in January, 1885, and
it almost totally destroyed the whole block on Front street,
between Second and Third avenues. The buildings were mostly frame,
but a small brick building, on the west of the post office, was
the means of checking the flames. The loss was estimated at sixty
thousand dollars, on which the insurance was twenty-five
thousand.
The "Globe" tells of the heroic work of the volunteer firemen
in preventing a general fire. Dodge City's second great fire,
occuring December 1st, 1885, was again on Front street, in the
block between First and Second avenues, which was completely
destroyed. With the exception of the R. M. Wright building, which
was of brick, all the buildings were of frame. The loss was
computed at about seventy-five thousand dollars. The origin of the
fire is supposed to have been a coal oil lamp exploding, or
breaking from a fall, where it was suspended, upstairs over
Sheridan's saloon. The fire oc-
-317-
curing at seven in the evening, gave opportunity to save much
inside property; but, owing to inadequate means of putting out
fires, the entire block was soon consumed. As the "Globe"
describes it: "Ladders were soon run up to the roof of the Globe
building; and just as many men as could get around to work,
started in, passing buckets of water, wetting blankets and
spreading them on the roof and keeping them wet, while others kept
the roof well covered with salt. At each of the upstairs windows
were stationed one or two men, who kept the scorching, blistering
building from taking fire. It was a hard and well-fought battle
with the fiery element." The damage by moving stocks from the
buildings on Chestnut street, besides houses that were scorched
and damaged by water, amounted to considerable. There was no wind,
and the evening was quiet and damp.
Such were the conditions and events leading to the
establishment of facilities for fire protection. And one of Dodge
City's institutions, of which she was particularly proud, was her
little fire company. It was the pride of the village, and the pet
of western Kansas and Colorado. Wherever our fire boys went,
Wichita, Newton, Denver, Leadville, Pueblo, Colorado Springs, and
Trinidad, they were feasted, wined and dined, toasted and given
the place of honor; and never did they fail to bring home one of
the first prizes for fast runs and all around efficiency, while
their conduct away from home was an honor to our town, and always
mentioned as such by the town of which they were the guests. Their
trim, neat, and gentlemanly appearance was also universally
remarked, and favorably commented upon.
It is a notorious fact and worthy of note that the climate
around Dodge City is conducive to speed. Parties from Dodge, Mr.
Sam Stubbs, William Tilghman, and others, have gone east and
bought up and brought back to Dodge, old, broken-down race horses.
Under good treatment and care, these horses would not only regain
-318-
their former speed, but would way yonder surpass it, and would be
taken back east and beat their former record and win many races.
It was the same way with young athletes. They would come to Dodge,
join our fire company, and many of them turn out even-time men;
and that is why our little fire company was always to the front.
Dodge was also the home of some of the speediest wild animals on
earth for instance, the antelope, the little red, swift or prairie
fox, the wild horse, deer, elk, and, last but not least, the jack
rabbit. Perhaps speed was in the air--or climate.
The close of Dodge City's first great epoch of prosperity was further marked by
many projects for railroad building, most of which, however, fell
through to a greater or less extent. When the Bucklin branch was
built, the intended extension of the road was through Arkansas,
Kansas, and Colorado; but Ford county voted one hundred thousand
dollars in bonds, to aid in this enterprise, and the Bucklin
branch was the limit. On September 30th, 1887, the "Globe" said
arrangements had. been perfected for the grading, tieing, and
laying of iron on the Arkansas, Kansas & Colorado Railroad, which
was to be built, with a connection with the Rock Island at
Bucklin, to Dodge City, and "which must be completed by December
31st, to earn the hundred thousand dollars in county bonds, voted
to said road to aid in its construction. The president, Mr. C. D.
Perry, has just returned from the East, where he arranged for all
necessary material, and graders have gone to work." The Wichita &
Western was looked for-it was always an ignis fatuus in railroad
projects-but it never appeared. About this time the Montezuma
railroad was considered, and was built by A. T. Soule. The road
was abandoned, and the rails and ties taken up. Some traces of the
old road bed are yet plain.
One of the institutions of this period, of which Dodge City was
justly proud, and which carried her peculiar in-
-319-
dividuality and atmosphere from one end of the country to the
other, was the famous "Cowboy Band". This band was organized with
a membership of eighteen men, including drum major and color
bearer. The band wore the uniform of the cowboy. A large sombrero
took the place of the ordinary hat, while a blue flannel shirt was
substituted for the white-bosomed shirt, and a silk scarf took the
place of a neck tie. Leather leggings, supported by a cartridge
belt and scabbard, a navy six-shooter, and spurs on boots
completed the dress of this famous band of musicians.
The "St.
Louis Globe-Democrat" once printed a picture of the band, showing
Professor Eastman (the director) using a six-shooter to beat the
time. A reporter on the paper asked the professor what he swung
that gun for, and was told it was his baton. "Is it loaded?" asked
the reporter. "Yes." "What for?" "To kill the first man who
strikes a false note," was the professor's reply.
The Cowboy Band
went over a larger scope of country and was the best-advertised
band of any band, east or west, that was ever organized. It
attracted more attention wherever it went, not because it
discoursed more beautiful music than any other band-although the
members were highly complimented for their talent as musicians-but
because of its unique appearance. After its fame became known, it
was invited to a great many celebrated gatherings; for instance,
to Washington City, when President Harrison was inaugurated, and
my' what a swath the bunch did cut. People just went wild over
them, 1 expect because many of them had never seen a cowboy
before; and their uniforms were a wonder to them. With their
chapps and spurs and woolly leather leggings, belts and
six-shooters, quirts, etc., it was indeed a sight to the people,
and crowds followed in their wake, when they marched down
Pennsylvania avenue. They liked to never got home. They were taken
all around the country, and they were actually quarreled over, as
to
-320-
what city or convention they would go to next. They were loaded
down with all sorts and kinds of trophies and presents, and even
money was forced upon them.
Colonel Hunter, president of the St. Louis stockmen's
convention, and Mr. Rainwater, mayor of St. Louis, entertained the
Cowboy Band handsomely; they dined them and wined them and gave
them the freedom of the city, and none of them was allowed to
spend a cent. At a banquet, given them by Mr. Rainwater at his
private residence, one of the band, a tall, raw-boned, awkward,
ungainly man, George Horter by name, when they were seated at the
banquet board, took up his finger bowl and drank the water. The
other boys noticed this and were embarrassed at it. Mr. Rainwater
came nobly to the rescue by taking up his finger bowl, also, and
drinking from it to the health of the Cowboy Band.
While the band was in Topeka, they were invited to a banquet,
given by the great lawyer and prince of good fellows, Captain
George R. Peck, general solicitor of the Atchison, Topeka &
Santa Fe Railroad. During the banquet, this same George Horter
said: "'Captain Peck!' Why, nearly twenty years ago my captain was
named Peck." At that, Captain Peck said: "What regiment and
company?" George told him, when they both jumped up and hugged
each other. Such a scene you never witnessed. They both almost
wept in each other's arms.
After twenty years, to be brought together in this way!
It was touching, to say the least.
"The Pueblo Chieftain," in an account of the cattlemen's
convention, held in Dodge City, April 13th, 1882, says:
"The cattlemen's convention adjourned yesterday, and the
proceedings wound up last night with the grandest ball and
banquet ever held in western Kansas. It is estimated that the
stockmen here represented over fifty million dollars. Just think
of that amount of money, in one hall, in a western town. The hall
was splendidly
-321-
decorated by the ladies of Dodge. Evergreen anchors, wreaths,
crosses, and other emblems, with a number of fine pictures
decorated the walls. Among the latter were several splendid oil
paintings, the work of Mrs. Chalk Beeson. The ball was a
masquerade affair. The music was furnished by the Cowboy Band, and
the prompting was done by Mr. Beeson, the best in the business.
The banquet was in Cox's very best style, and was a magnificent
affair." The Kansas City papers reported during the exposition of
1886: "The Cowboy Band elicited words of praise from fifteen
thousand visitors yesterday. This band is composed of real
cowboys, not soft-handed dudes in disguise, as some had supposed
before seeing them." The Cowboy Band was organized in 1881, after
which time it gradually grew into prominence until it gained for
itself a world-wide reputation. The first time the boys appeared
in public as the Cowboy Band was in 1881, when they furnished
music for the Topeka fair. In 1884 they attended the Cattlemen's
National Convention at St. Louis, where they were presented with
several magnificent banners as a token of the high appreciation by
the people of St. Louis for the excellent music the boys furnished
them. On the trip to St. Louis they also visited Chicago, St.
Paul, Milwaukee, and several other important cities, and on all
occasions were received by the people in a manner which showed
their love for good music.
In 1885 they made their second visit to St. Louis, and in 1886
visited Pueblo and Denver, where they were received even in a more
royal manner than in the eastern cities. And the boys were often
heard to boast of the kind treatment they received at the hands of
our good neighbors of the State of Colorado.
The abandonment of Fort Dodge, the settlement of the military
reservation, and the establishment of the Soldiers' Home, were
important steps in the seeming course of advancement, in this
period of Dodge City's
-322-
history. The abandonment of Fort Dodge as a military post, in
June, 1882, created surprise among the Dodge City people and
settlers generally. With the abandonment of the fort, the people
would have no protection against Indian raids. But the troops
stationed at Fort Dodge were sent, one company to Fort Reno, one
company to Fort Supply, and the third company to Fort Elliott,
Texas, where they could be in proximity to the Indian
reservations. Fort Dodge, after its abandonment by the military,
was partially demolished, many buildings being removed.
However, the rebuilding and repairing took place, and the
establishment of the Soldiers' Home sustained the character of the
famous post. The establishment of this Home was indicated as early
as the first part of 1883, a resolution having been introduced in
the Kansas legislature, memorializing congress to cede the Fort
Dodge military reservation for that purpose. But it was not until
1887 that the Home was established.
Late in May, 1886, a sudden rush for settlement, on the Fort
Dodge reservation was made, early one Monday morning, and a
hundred or more claims staked off, between Sunday night at twelve
o'clock and Monday morning before sunrise. No one appeared to know
how the reservation happened to be thrown upon the market all of a
sudden, and no one stopped to inquire, but went right along with
settling and improving some portion of the reservation, regardless
of what the outcome might be.
The people were perfectly wild with the excitement occasioned
by this mysterious move. Every available team in the city was
employed to haul lumber; carpenters were in demand, who, after
being hired to do a little midnight job in the way of erecting a
claim house, refused to work for their employers, but, on the
other hand, hired teams and went to the reservation with lumber,
squatted upon a hundred and sixty acres of land, and erected a
house for themselves.
-323-
Now all this was wholly unwarranted on the squatters' part. The
reservation had not been thrown open to settlement, and the only
foothold the premature settlers gained was that of "squatters'
right" which gave him the first right to purchase, in case the
land was put up for sale. The reservation lands were subsequently
opened to settlement, on terms prescribed by the government, by
purchase and priority in settlement. The original "squatters,"
except in a few instances, relinquished their rights, and others
proved up the claims.
Not the least of the signs of modernism, in this particular
epoch of Dodge City, was the somewhat uncertain, but none the less
significant moves toward certain social reforms. As is usual with
the beginnings of such attempts, they took the form of the
suppressing of profanity in public, and the establishment of a
stricter form of Sunday observance. An example of one of the first
protests against profanity is that of Postmaster Reamer, who,
through the "Globe" of December 21st, 1886, "protests against the
profanity, and in the post office especially, by the ladies, if
such they can be called; more especially those that swear just
because they do not get a letter." In early times, Sunday business
was the same as week-day business. In the frontier days, stores
were kept open on Sundays to accommodate the cattle and plains
traders. Evidently the first efforts toward changing these
conditions were, at first, regarded as almost hopeless. The
following is significant: "Reverend O. W. Wright has presented a
petition from the citizens of Dodge City to our merchants,
requesting them to close their stores on the Sabbath day. He
obtained the names of a majority of the merchants, but as all will
not agree to close, the present effort will stop here." By 1883,
however, efforts along this line were more successful. A telegram
from Dodge City, in the spring of that year, said of the town:
"For the first time since its existence, it had, last Sunday, the
semblance of Sab-
-324
bath. All business houses and saloons, dance halls and
gambling halls were closed. There is universal rejoicing over
this, and it is felt that all measures of reform, as contemplated
by the city council, will be carried out.
Many of the gamblers and prostitutes are leaving, most of them
going to Caldwell. Now if Caldwell could only be reformed." With
all these movements toward development, improvement, and reform,
following directly after her great prosperity of earlier days, it
would seem that Dodge City, in 1885, was on the certain road to
further advancement, steady progress, and uninterrupted growth and
prosperity. But, lo and behold! a new aspect came over the spirit
of our dreams. Dodge City, once famous for its extraordinary
prosperity, its lavishness in prodigality and possession of
wealth, at one fell swoop was reduced to extreme poverty, almost
want. The change was sharp and quick, and almost without warning.
The dead line was moved to the state line, and Dodge City lost the
cattle trade;
she also lost a tremendous freight business by wagon, the
buffalo hide and bone industry, and other business incident to a
frontier country. Railroads, building on the south, had absorbed
the freight by wagon route; and farmers, settling on the lands,
further reduced the cattle trade. Under this pressure of
civilization, the town staggered under the blow. Even the great
Santa Fe Railroad felt the loss, for the company was put into the
hands of a receiver, and the road's operating expenses were cut in
two. It was the Santa Fe Railway which gave Dodge City her start
in pioneer life; and with this confidence, we felt if everything
else failed the road would continue to be a source of revenue to
the city. Such depression, following so closely on the heels of
her great affluence, was truly paralyzing.
For ten long years, Dodge City was suspended in reverses. But
during this poverty-stricken period, the process of liquidation
was slowly being carried out. Dodge
-325-
City had had so much faith in her progress and former wealth,
that a calamity was unexpected; she lost sight of the fact that
the unnatural extravagance of that former wealth and progress was
bound to bring a reaction, sooner or later. In this depression,
property went down to five and ten cents on the dollar, in value,
or you could buy it for a song and sing it yourself. People would
not pay taxes, and the county became possessed of much valuable
real estate, while hundreds of speculators were purchasers of tax
titles. Many of the business houses closed, and large numbers of
residences were without tenants. Parties were invited to live in
them rent free, so the insurance could be kept up. And the same
depression was felt in land and cattle. Good cows sold for eight
to ten dollars. Land around Dodge sold as low as fifty cents per
acre. The writer's land, a tract of seven thousand acres, was sold
under the hammer, at less than fifty cents per acre; and some for
less than that price.
A good story is told of an Irishman, passing through Dodge
City, from Morton county in the southwest part of Kansas, on his
way to his wife's folks in the East, with a little old team of
horses, a wagon, and a small cow tied behind the wagon. He stopped
to water his team, and, when someone asked him where he was from
and what were the conditions out there, he said, "It is a
beautiful country for prospects, bless your soul!" "Why did you
leave?" he was asked. "Got tired; and my wife wanted to see her
folks," he replied. "What is the price of land out there?" He
said: "Come here! you see that little cow behind the wagon; I
traded a quarter section of land for her, and by gobs; before I
made the deed, I found the critter I sold to couldn't read, so I
just slipped in the other quarter section I had into the deed, and
the fellow didn't know it." Our town and country was likened to a
rich family which, through extravagance and bad management, was
reduced to extreme poverty. When they were down to
-326-
the lowest ebb and everything was gone, the head of the family
caught the eldest son in tears. He said to him, "My son, what are
you crying for?" "My God, father!" he replied, "we have nothing
left, whatever." "That is so, my son; but cheer up!" the father
said: "Don't you see?
we are at the foot of the ladder and we can go no further down;
so we are bound to climb." Thus it was with Dodge City. She was at
the very foot of the ladder, and was bound to climb; and so she
did, after she started-slow, at first, but after we caught our
second wind, then by leaps and bounds. We commenced to go up. Our
wheat which had been selling for 40 cents per bushel went up to 60
cents; our seasons began to improve, and our farmers take fresh
heart and put in a larger acreage of wheat and other crops; and
cattle began to go way up. Our people sold their wheat and
invested in cattle; and sold their increase in cattle and bought
cheap lands; and so it went, until our country got to be the third
largest wheat county, two or three million bushels each year. In
the harvest of 1912, Ford county was second in Kansas, in wheat
production. With the proceeds from their wheat, farmers bought
more land and erected business houses in Dodge City. And now Dodge
can boast of the second finest courthouse, if not the finest in
the state, a handsome city hall, a great system of waterworks and
electric lights in splendid buildings, while our jail is a modern
building, and our schools and magnificent churches are second to
none. Out of a great conflict rises a period of prosperity.
To have gone through this endurance of adversity, equipped the
people with courage and a sense of stability and prudence, which
not only gives them caution, but nerve, in making Dodge City the
commercial city of western Kansas.
As a close to this work, in addition to what has already been
said in the same vein, a glimpse of the Dodge City of today, lying
in the brilliant summer sunshine of
-327-
1913, must be given, or our subject will fall short of
receiving complete justice. A marked change from the feverish
commotion of its first great boom, or the terrible stagnation and
desolation of its time of depression, is apparent. The happy
medium, in its perfection, has been struck by the town, at last.
It is now a busy, bustling, city of 5,000 people, all push and
energy, building up and, reaching out and making every other sort
of steady progress toward development and improvement, socially,
financially, and esthetically, without any wild clamor about it.
Nor is this general progress dependent upon any transient traffic
or local condition, as was the first great era of prosperity. It
is founded on the broader, firmer foundation of the development of
territory and the natural pressure of modern civilization, and
must, in the very nature of things, continue indefinitely and be
permanent, with nothing mushroom like in its nature.
The change is great and keenly apparent to any observer of
recent years; how infinitely greater, then, it must be, and how
much more apparent to us who have watched the progress of Dodge,
from its very beginning.
Rich, green fields of alfalfa, and others of golden wheat, now
surround the town, in place of the bare prairies of old; farm
houses, handsome and commodious, with orchards, gardens, and
pastures, occupy,.1e place in the landscape once filled by the
humble cabins, and' dobe or sod houses, where the pioneer settler
lived so long, in daily fear for his life at the mercy of
murderous Indians; the primitive fording places of the river, and
their successor, the rude wooden bridge of early days, have been
replaced by a steel and concrete bridge, double-tracked and
electric lighted, across which are continually whirring smart
vehicles and elegant automobiles, in place of the lumbering ox
wagon or the spur-driven cow pony; the weatherworn, blood-stained,
old Santa Fe trail is now being honored as a distinguished
historical highway and having its course marked, at intervals, by
granite tablets, and a
-328-
fine automobile road alongside; even the river shows change,
its channel being narrowed and volume diminished by its
contribution to irrigation projects above Dodge City, but this
slight defection is more than repaid by the additional verdure and
bloom and wealth produced by the stolen waters.
Though enormous crops of wheat and alfalfa are raised, without
artificial aid, and the bulk of these staples are produced without
it, irrigation is quite common in the vicinity of Dodge City. Many
of the irrigation plants are private property, consisting, mainly,
of deep wells, sunk to tap the underflow of the river, and fitted
with pumps to bring the water to the surface. This underflow is
practically inexhaustible, and the amount of water a farmer wishes
to use need be limited only by the number of wells he is able to
put down.
In contrast to these small systems, is the largest irrigation
project in Dodge City's neighborhood, the great Eureka Ditch. This
enterprise was first conceived by the Gilbert brothers, John and
George, two of the most enterprising and go-ahead citizens that
ever struck this or any other country; and they were backed,
financially, by the great "Hop Bitters" man, Mr. A. T. Soule, of
Rochester, New York, who was also the founder of our big
college.
By the side of the river is Wright Park, which it was the
pleasure of the writer to donate to the city, in 1897, and which,
in 1880, was a piece of land newly set with young trees. It is now
a large grove of magnificent trees, the only indication of their
not being natural forest being the somewhat regular manner in
which they stand.
Of this park, a local paper is good enough to say: "The Wright
Park is an institution of the city, highly valued for its use in
the purposes for which it was intended. In this city, park, public
gatherings of all kinds are held, free of charge. The public
spirit of Mr. Wright was mani-
-329-
fested on many occasions, but in none, will be surpassed that of
the park donation, which will be a living monument to his memory.
The only reservation Mr. Wright made, in donating the park, was
that it was to be called, 'Wright Park,' always. Mr. Wright also
donated thirteen acres of land where the Harvey eating house
stands, to the railroad company, on condition that a park be
established; and also that citizens of Dodge City should be
charged only fifty cents a meal. But the latter agreement was
carried out for a short time only; and the laying out and
cultivation of a park is still deferred-now nearly seventeen years
having elapsed." The changes and growth in Wright Park is
duplicated in many other institutions of Dodge City. Everywhere,
brick, stone, and concrete supplant the frame structures of former
days. And even good brick and stone structures of earlier times,
have been replaced by others of more elegant quality or design. An
example is the courthouse which, first built of brick and stone,
was recently torn down and replaced by the just completed elegant
structure of white stone and marble, a delight to the eye in every
line and detail. The contract for the building of the city hall, a
beautiful architectural specimen of brick and white stone, in the
midst of spacious, well-kept grounds, was given in October, 1887,
to Messrs. Sweeney and Toley, for the sum of $19,800. The work on the
Methodist college was under way, at this time, upwards of
thirty-seven thousand dollars being expended; but, in the time of
depression, the building was discontinued, and the property
finally abandoned as a college. Just recently, however, it has
been bought entire by the Roman Catholics, and is now being
overhauled and refitted, preparatory to the opening of a large
school there at once.
The ward school buildings of Dodge, of which
there are three, are large and substantial structures of brick
-330-
and stone. The handsomest, the present high school building,
occupies the site of old "Boot Hill," a mute but ever present and
immutable witness of how thoroughly culture and education has
replaced violence and lawlessness in that locality. Roomy as are
her school facilities, however, they cannot accommodate the
continually growing number of Dodge City's school population, and
plans are now under way for the building of a new high school
building, larger, handsomer, and more strictly modern than any of
the others, admirable though they certainly are.
The good old Santa Fe Railroad has also redeemed itself in the
public mind, and resumed its part In the upbuilding and
advancement of Dodge City. Its great roundhouse and machine shops
of a division are located here, a handsome station has taken the
place of the boxcar and small station house of early days, an
elegant "Harvey House" hotel is maintained, and a ten
thousand dollar freight depot of brick and stone has just been
completed by the road. This last statement, alone, is proof that
the freight traffic over the Santa Fe, at Dodge City, is still
highly important, while the passenger service is equally
important, and perfect in appointment and convenience.
Among the churches, the Christian denomination was the first to
erect a large and handsome church building of brick and stone,
which is, an ornament to the city. The Methodists have just completed an elegant twenty-five
thousand-dollar edifice of brick, stone, and concrete; while the Presbyterians contemplate the erection of an equally handsome building, in the near future. The Episcopal church,
though small, is a little gem--the most artistic building in Dodge
City. With its brown stone walls, colored glass windows, and
square bell tower, it is delightfully suggestive of the chapels of
rural England. The Baptist church, though large, is of frame; but it occupies
the most centrally located site of any church in
-331-
town. It is directly opposite the Public Library, another
handsome, modern building of brick and stone, wherein a large free
library is maintained for the edification and education of the
people of the city.
However, among all the handsome buildings of modern Dodge City,
from her perfectly appointed signal station, to her huge grain
elevators, there is not one which she cherishes more highly nor of
which she is more proud, than of a modest little cottage in the
heart of the city.
This is the oldest house in town, though it is so well
preserved that no one would suspect it to be Dodge's oldest house
in point of service. It is as strong and substantial as it was
thirty years ago, and is still doing splendid service as a
residence. I wrote a brief description of this house for the
"Dodge City Globe", of November 9th, I911, which follows. Said the
"Globe":
"It is a cold day when R. M. Wright, pioneer plainsman and
freighter, cannot get up a good story about Dodge City. His latest
one is about the oldest house in the town. In writing this little
sketch for the 'Globe', Mr. Wright lets the house tell its own
story, in the following language:
" 'Not many houses can tell a story like mine. I am by far the
oldest house in Dodge City. Mine has been a checkered career. I
was first built in Abilene, then taken down and moved to Salina,
and from there to Ellsworth.
Nothing doing in the way of excitement up to my advent in
Ellsworth. There my trouble as well as my festivities began. From
that time on, I led a gay and festive life, interspersed with some
sad tragedies. Many fights and scraps were inaugurated there, in
the wee small hours of the night; and once a murder was committed,
as well as several duels started. I said murder; in those days we
called it "shooting" and the man who did not get the drop was the
"unfortunate." Then I was moved to Fort Dodge and first occupied
by Charles F. Tracy, who was
-332-
succeeded by John E. Tappen, and he by R. M. Wright, post-trader,
and he by James Langton and his delightful sister, who was a great
entertainer.
"'Here is where I had a gay time, as night after night, the
officers of the post congregated there, to have a good time. And
they had it; never were they disappointed in this. Cards, dancing,
and music were the principal programme features, ending with
sumptuous repasts about midnight. There have I entertained lords,
dukes, and other great men of Europe as well as America. Among
those who have sat at the festive board were Generals Sherman,
Sheridan, Miles, Forsythe, and Pope; and brigadiers, colonels, lieutenant-colonels, and majors too
numerous to mention. Once I was graced by the president of the
United States, President Hayes.
"'From Fort Dodge, I was moved to Dodge City, where I have led
a very peaceful life, in my old age. I am now occupied by W. B.
Rhodes and family. Under all my owners, I have never been changed,
but remain exactly the same building as when I was first erected,
even to the two ells and porch. I now stand on the corner of Vine
street and First avenue, a venerable relic of my past days of
glory and splendor.' " But why continue further with the
enumeration of the noteworthy features of our city, and the
description of the transformations that have taken place on every
side within her boundaries, since the time when the Lady Gay dance
hall was the center of social Dodge, and Boot Hill the boundary
line of the great buffalo range. Change, change, everywhere
change, and for the better, is all that can be seen. Did I say
everywhere? I don't quite mean that. There is one place where
Dodge City has not changed; her spirit of hospitality and
benevolence, of liberality and justice, of kindliness to strangers
and good cheer to unfortunates, is the same today as it was when
-333- the people cheered and exulted
over the privilege of sending aid to the yellow fever sufferers;
or when they risked life itself to rescue some frail woman from
the horrors of Indian captivity. There is an indescribable,
feeling of kindliness, good fellowship, and homelikeness in the
very atmosphere of Dodge. The stranger feels it, immediately upon
his arrival, and no matter how long he stays, he finds it
continually made good. Snobbery and arrogance . are little known
in her social circles. Her wealthiest and most influential
citizens are simple, hearty, whole-souled human beings, with the
human quality pronounced in its degree; and there is a warmth and
freedom of social intercourse among her residents, or extended
from the residents to sojourners in the town, that seems the very
manifestation of the western spirit of our dreams, or as if Dodge
City might be the ideal, "where the West begins," as described in
Arthur Chapman's lovely little poem:
"Out where the hand clasps a little stronger;
Out where a smile dwells a little longer;
That's where the West begins:
Out where the sun is a little brighter;
Where the snows that fall are a trifle whiter;
Where the bonds of home are a wee bit tighter;
That's where the West Begins.
"Out where the skies are a trifle bluer;
Out where friendship's a little truer;
That's where the West begins:
Out where a fresher breeze is blowing;
Where there's laughter in every streamlet flowing;
Where there's more of reaping
and less of sowing;
That's where the West Begins.
"Out where the world is in the making;
Where fewer hearts with despair are aching;
That's where the West begins:
|
-334-
"Where there's more of singing and less of sighing;
Where there's more of giving and less of buying;
And a man makes friends without half trying;
That's where the West begins."
|
-335-