CHAPTER VII.
The Beginnings of Dodge City
IT has already been said that Dodge City was established in 1872,
upon the advent of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. Dodge
was in the very heart of the buffalo country. Hardly had the
railroad reached there, long before a depot could be built (they
had an office in a box car), business began; and such a business!
Dozens of cars a day were loaded with hides and meat, and dozens
of carloads of grain, flour, and provisions arrived each day. The
streets of Dodge were lined with wagons, bringing in hides and
meat and getting supplies from early morning to late at night.
Charles Rath & Company ordered from Long Brothers, of Kansas City,
two hundred cases of baking-powder at one order. They went to
Colonel W. F. Askew, to whom we were shipping immense quantities
of hides, and said: "These men must be crazy, or else they mean
two hundred boxes instead of cases." They said there were not two
hundred cases in the city. Askew wired us if we had not made a
mistake. We answered, "No; double the order." Askew was out a
short time after that and saw six or eight carloads of flour
stacked up in the warehouse. He said he now understood. It was to
bake this flour up into bread.
I have been to several mining camps where rich strikes had been
made, but I never saw any town to equal Dodge. A good hunter would
make a hundred dollars a day. Everyone had money to throw at the
birds. There was no article less than a quarter-a drink was a
quarter, a shave was a quarter, a paper of pins a quarter, and
needles the same. In fact, that was the smallest change. Governor
St. John was in Dodge once, when he was notified that a terrible
cyclone had visited a little town
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close to the Kansas line, in Nebraska. In two hours I raised one
thousand dollars, which he wired them. Our first calaboose in
Dodge City was a well fifteen feet deep, into which the drunkards
were let down and allowed to remain until they were sober.
Sometimes there were several in it at once. It served the purpose
well for a time.
Of course everyone has heard of wicked Dodge; but a great deal has
been said and written about it that is not true. Its good side has
never been told, and I cannot give it space here. Many reckless,
bad men came to Dodge and many brave men. These had to be met by
officers equally brave and reckless. As the old saying goes, "You
must fight the devil with fire." The officers gave them the south
side of the railroad-track, but the north side must be kept
respectable, and it was. There never was any such thing as
shooting at plug hats. On the contrary, every stranger that came
to Dodge City and behaved himself was treated with politeness; but
woe be unto the man who came seeking a fight. He was soon
accommodated in any way, shape, or form that he wished.
Often have I seen chivalry extended to ladies on the streets, from
these rough men, that would have done credit to the knights of
old. When some man a little drunk, and perhaps unintentionally,
would jostle a lady in a crowd, he was soon brought to his senses
by being knocked down by one of his companions, who remarked,
"Never let me see you insult a lady again." In fact, the chivalry
of Dodge toward the fair sex and strangers was proverbial. Never
in the history of Dodge was a stranger mistreated, but, on the
contrary, the utmost courtesy was always and under all
circumstances extended to him, and never was there a frontier town
whose liberality exceeded that of Dodge. But, while women,
children, and strangers were never, anywhere, treated with more
courtesy and respect; while such things as shooting up plug hats
and making strangers dance is all bosh and moonshine, and one
attempting such would
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have been promptly called down; let me tell you one thing-none of
Dodge's well-known residents would have been so rash as to dare to
wear a plug hat through the streets, or put on any "dog", such as
wearing a swallow tailor evening dress, or any such thing.
The general reputation of young Dodge City is well described in an
article entitled, "Reminiscences of Dodge," written in 1877, and
expressing what a stranger has to say about the town. The article
runs as follows:
"By virtue of the falling off in the cattle drive to Kansas for
this year, and the large number of cattle driven under contract,
Dodge City became the principal depot for the sale of surplus
stock; buyers met drovers at this point, purchased and received
purchases without unnecessary delay, thereby greatly facilitating
business and enabling quick returns of both owners and hands. In
the future, situated as it is upon one of the best railroads
traversing the country from east to west, the Atchison, Topeka &
Santa Fe, it will probably occupy an enviable position as a cattle
market. "Dodge has many characteristics which prevent its being
classed as a town of strictly moral ideas and principles,
notwithstanding it is supplied with a church, courthouse, and
jail. Other institutions counterbalance the good works supposed to
emanate from the first mentioned. Like all frontier towns of this
modern day, fast men and fast women are around by the score,
seeking whom they may devour, hunting for a soft snap, taking him
in for cash, and many is the Texas cowboy who can testify as to
their ability to follow up successfully the calling they have
embraced in quest of money.
"Gambling ranges from a game of five-cent chuck-aluck to a
thousand-dollar poker pot. Nothing is secret, but with open doors
upon the main streets, the ball rolls on uninterruptedly. More
than occasionally some darkeyed virago or some brazen-faced
blonde, with a modern sundown, will saunter in among the roughs of
the gam-
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bling houses and saloons, entering with inexplicable zest into the
disgusting sport, breathing the immoral atmosphere with a gusto
which I defy modern writers to explain. Dance houses are ranged
along the convenient distances and supplied with all the trappings
and paraphernalia which go to complete institutions of that
character. Here you see the greatest abandon. Men of every grade
assemble to join in the dance. Nice men with white neckties, the
cattle dealer with his good clothes, the sport with his
well-turned fingers, smooth tongue, and artistically twisted
mustache, and last but not least the cowboy, booted and spurred as
he comes from the trail, his hard earnings in his pocket, all join
in the wild revel; and yet with all this mixture of strange human
nature a remarkable degree of order is preserved. Arms are not
allowed to be worn, and any noisy whisky demonstrations are
promptly checked by incarceration in the lock-up. Even the mayor
of the city indulges in the giddy dance with the girls, and with
his cigar in one corner of his mouth and his hat tilted to one
side, he makes a charming looking officer.
"Some things occur in Dodge that the world never knows of.
Probably it is best so. Other things occur that leak out by
degrees, notwithstanding the use of hush money. That, too, is
perhaps the best. Men learn by such means.
"Most places are satisfied with one abode of the dead. In the
grave there is no distinction. The rich are known from the poor
only by their tombstones, so the sods that are upon the grave fail
to reflect the characters buried beneath them. And yet Dodge
boasts of two burying spots, one for the tainted whose very souls
were steeped in immorality, and who have generally died with their
boots on. 'Boot Hill' is the somewhat singular title applied to
the burial place of the class just mentioned. The other is not
designated by any particular title but it is supposed to contain
the bodies of those who died with a
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clean sheet on their beds-the soul in this case is a secondary
consideration." So much for one view of Dodge City, but, though
common, this view was not quite universal. Sometimes a writer
appeared who could recognize a few slightly better features in the
border town, and who could look beyond its existing lawlessness
and see the possibilities and beginnings of a higher state of
things. In proof of this I'll quote an article, written in 1878,
a year later than the last, and entitled, "The Beautiful, Bibulous
Babylon of the Frontier":
"Standing out on the extreme border of civilization, like an oasis
in the desert, or like a light-house off a rocky coast, is 'The
Beautiful, Bibulous Babylon of the Frontier,' Dodge City, so
termed by Lewis, editor of the 'Kinsley Graphic.' Dodge City is
far famed, not for its virtues, but for its wickedness; the
glaring phases of its vices stand pre-eminent, and attract the
attention of the visitor; and these shadows of Babylon are
reproduced in the gossip's corner and-in the press. It is seldom
the picture has fine embellishments; but the pen artist of the
'Graphic' put the finer touches of nature to the pen portrait of
Dodge-'she is no worse than Chicago.' This, we admit, is a slight
leverage in the social scale, to be placed in the category of
Chicago's wickedness.
"Dodge City has magnetic attractions. Few people are attracted
here by curiosity; everyone has business, except the tramps, and
they have no business here. But our visitors see it all before
they leave, and they use the same circumspection here they would
under their own vine and fig tree. Many of them are not charitable
enough to tell the unvarnished truth. In vain boast and idle glory
they recount the pilgrimage to Dodge as though they passed through
blood, rapine, and warfully attested their courage.
"But the 'Kinsley Graphic' pays the 'Bibulous Babylon' a high
compliment, besides raising the moral
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standard of Dodge to that of the immaculate virtue of Chicago.
"Kansas has but one Dodge City. With a broad expanse of territory
sufficiently vast for an empire, we have only room for one Dodge
City. Without particularizing at length, we were most favorably
impressed generally during a brief visit at our neighboring city
Tuesday.
Beautiful for situation, cozily nestled on the 'beach' of the
turbid Arkansas, while on the north the palisades rise above the
busy little city, which in the near future will be ornamented with
cozy cottages, modern mansions, and happy homes. The view from the
elegant brick court house, situated above the town, is grand. The
panorama spread out west, south, and east, takes in a vast scope
of valley scenery such as only can be found fringing our river.
Seventy-five thousand head of cattle, recently driven in from the
ranges south, can be seen lazily feeding on the nutritious native
meadows, while the cowboys gallop here and there among these vast
herds, displaying superior horsemanship. Five miles down the
river, the old flag floats proudly over the garrison at the
military P0st.
"The city proper is a busy beehive of bustle and business, a
conglomerated aggregation of every line of business alternating
with saloons. Francis Murphy don't live in Dodge. There are a few
institutions of which Dodgeites are justly proud-the ever popular
Dodge House, 'The Times', the court house, the fire company,
Mayor Kelley's hounds, and the 'Varieties'. Much has been said of
the wickedness and unrighteousness of the city. If 'old Probe'
should send a shower of fire and brimstone up there, we would not
vouch for there being a sufficient number of righteous citizens to
save the city; yet with all her wickedness, she is no worse today
than Chicago and many other cities where the music of the chimes
are daily heard. There is but one difference, however, which is a
frontier characteristic; our neighbors do not pretend to
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hide their peculiarities. A few years hence Dodge City will be a
model of morality and a city of no mean importance.
"For courtesies shown us we acknowledge our obligations to Messrs.
Kline & Shine of the lively 'Times', Judge Gryden (who
deserves to be known as Prince Harry, and whose only fault is his
rock-footed Democracy), Mayor Kelley, Hon. H. M. Sutton, the
popular county attorney, E. F. Colburn, the modest city attorney,
Samuel Marshal, the portly judge, Fringer, the postmaster, Hon. R.
M. Wright, Dr. McCarty, Sheriff Masterson and his efficient
lieutenant City Marshal Basset, and our old friends at the signal
office." Again, under the heading, "The Wickedest City in
America," the "Kokomo, Indiana, Dispatch," of an issue in July,
1878, refers to Dodge: "Its character as a hell, out. on the great
plains, will be," said a local writer, "maintained in the minds of
traveling newspaper writers, just so long as the city shall remain
a rendezvous for the broad and immense uninhabited plains, by
narrating the wildest and wickedest phases of Dodge City; but we
have to commend them for complimenting Dodge on its orderly
character." The
"Dispatch" speaks very highly of Dodge as
a commercial point, and his letter bears many complimentary
features. We extract the following:
" 'My experience in Dodge was a surprise all around.
I found nothing as I pictured it in my mind. I had expected, from
the descriptions I had read of it, to find it a perfect bedlam, a
sort of Hogathian Gin Alley, where rum ran down the street gutters
and loud profanity and vile stenches contended for the mastery of
the atmosphere. On the contrary, I was happily surprised to find
the place in the daytime as quiet and orderly as a country village
in Indiana, and at night the traffic in the wares of the fickle
Goddess and human souls was conducted with a system so orderly and
quiet as to actually be painful to behold. It is a most
difficult task, I confess, to write
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up Dodge City in a manner to do impartial fairness to every
interest; the place has many redeeming points, a few of which I
have already mentioned. It is not nearly so awful a place as
reports make it. It is not true that the stranger in the place
runs a risk of being shot down in cold blood, for no offense
whatever." In the year 1878, the "Topeka Times" says, in a certain
issue: "During the year of 1873 we roughed it in the West.
Our first stopping place was the famous Dodge City, at the time a
perfect paradise for gamblers, cut-throats, and girls. On our
first visit the buildings in the town were not buildings, with one
or two exceptions, but tents and dugouts. Everyone in town,
nearly, sold whisky or kept a restaurant, perhaps both. The
Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad was just then working its way
up the low-banked Arkansas, and Dodge was the frontier town. Its
growth was rapid, in a month from the time the railroad was
completed to its borders, the place began to look like a city;
frame houses, one story high, sprang up; Dodge became noted as the
headquarters for the buffalo hunters, and the old town was one of
the busiest of trading points, and they were a jolly set of boys
there.
They carried a pair of Colt's revolvers in their belts, wore their
pants in their boots, and when they died, did so generally with
their boots on. It wasn't safe, in those times, to call a man a
liar or intimate that his reputation for honesty was none of the
best, unless you were spoiling for a fight. In those days, 'Boot
Hill' was founded, and the way it grew was astonishing to new
comers and terrifying to tenderfeet. We well remember, but now
forget the date, when a party of eastern capitalists came out to
look around with a view to locating. They were from Boston and
wore diamonds and kid gloves. The music at one of the dance halls
enticed the bald-headed sinners thither, and what with wine and
women, they became exceedingly gay. But in the midst of their
sport
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a shot was fired, and another, and, in a little time, the room
gleamed with flashing pistols and angry eyes. This was enough, and
the eastern capitalists hurried to the depot, where they remained
until the first train bore them to the classic shades of Boston.
But with all its wildness, Dodge could then, as it does yet, boast
of some of the best, freest, and whitest boys in the country.
We were down there again last week, and were surprised in the
change in the city. It has built up wonderfully, has a fine court
house, church, good schools, large business blocks, a good hall,
first-class hotels, and two live newspapers. The editor of the
'Times' was not in, but we saw Honorable D. M. Frost, the editor
of the 'Globe'. Dodge is coming out and is destined' to be a city
of considerable size." Another writer of the times, defending
Dodge City, says:
"There is an evident purpose to malign and create false
impressions concerning the character of Dodge City.
It is a pretty general impression that a person here is insecure
in life, and that the citizens of Dodge are walking howitzers.
This is a bad impression that should, by all means, be corrected.
Having but a short residence in this town, it is our deliberate
opinion, from a careful observation, that Dodge is as quiet and
orderly as any town of its size in Kansas. We have been treated
with the utmost cordiality. We have observed officers prompt and
efficient, in the discharge of their duties. There is an ordinance
prohibiting the carrying of fire arms, which is rigidly enforced.
The citizens are cordial, industrious, and display a business
alacrity, characteristic of the frontier tradesman. We are
surprised to note the difference of character of this town and the
impression aimed to be made upon us before coming here. There is a
lurking jealousy somewhere, that gives rise to false rumors, and
we trust every citizen of Dodge City will correct these false
impressions, as far as lies in his power. This, alone,
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would efface bad impressions and false rumors, but forbearance
ceases to be a virtue, and we kindly protest." Again, the
character of early Dodge was defended by Charles D. Ulmer, of the
"Sterling Bulletin," thus:
"On Friday, the party visited Dodge City, the riproaring burg of
the West. As we glided into the depot, we looked anxiously along
the street, expecting to see many squads of festive cowboys,
rigged out with arms enough to equip a regiment, and ready to pop
a shot at any plug hat that might be in the crowd, but nothing of
the kind was to be observed; instead, there was a busy, hustling
little city, like many others in Kansas, with, perhaps, a few
extra saloons thrown in for variety. Dodge City was a surprise to
us. It is beautifully located-the residence portion on the hills
which command a magnificent view of the country, east, west, and
south. The business portion is on the level bottom at the foot of
the hills. The railroad track is a little close to the main
business street for convenience.
"The party, on landing, instead of being received by a howling lot
of cowboys, with six-shooters and Winchester rifles rampant, were
received by a delegation of as gentlemanly and courteous men as
can be found in the state. During our stay in Dodge, we had the
pleasure of meeting most of the men who have been so prominently
mentioned in the late trouble at that place. Instead of low-browed
ruffians and cut-throats, we found them to be cultivated
gentlemen, but evidently possessing plenty of nerve for any
emergency. Among those we met and conversed with was Luke Short,
his partner, Mr. Harris, who is vice-president of the Dodge City
bank, and Mr. Webster. The late trouble originated in differences
between Messrs. Short and Webster, and, we believe, after both
sides get together it could and should have been settled without
the hubbub made, and interference of the state authorities. Mr.
Short, Mr. Harris, and others assured us that their side, at all
times, was ready and willing to
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submit their differences to the decision of the courts. The
trouble has been amicably adjusted, and no further trouble is
anticipated on the old score." But, as has already been stated,
often only the worst side of Dodge City was written up, in a way
to make the most of it. In protest against this practice, a local
writer of early times refers to a write-up of the sort, in this
wise:
"A verdant editor of the 'Hays City Sentinel' visits our brothels
and bagnios. From the tone of his article, he must have gone too
deep into the dark recesses of the lascivious things he speaks of,
and went away in the condition of the monkey who got his tail too
near the coals.
He says: 'After a long day's ride in the scorching sun, I arrived
in Dodge City. Dodge is the Deadwood of Kansas. Her incorporate
limits are the rendezvous of all the unemployed scallawagism in
seven states. Her principal business is polygamy without the
sanction of religion, her code of morals is the honor of thieves,
and decency she knows not. In short, she is an exaggerated
frontier town, and all her consistences are operated on the same
principle. Her every day occurrences are such as would make the
face of a Haysite, accustomed as he is to similar sights, color to
the roots of his hair and draw away disgusted. Dodge is a fast
town and all of her speedy proclivities exhibit to the best
advantage.
The employment of many citizens is gambling. Her virtue is
prostitution and her beverage is whisky. She is a merry town and
the only visible means of support of a great many of her citizens
is jocularity. Her rowdyism has taken a most aggravated form, and
was it not for the most stringent ordinances (some of which are
unconstitutional), and a fair attempt to enforce them, the town
would be suddenly depopulated and very much in the manner that
Ireland got rid of her snakes. Seventeen saloons furnish
inspiration and many people become inspired, not to say drunk.
Every facility is afforded for the exercise of conviviality, and
no restriction is placed
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on licentiousness. The town is full of prostitutes and every other
place is a brothel. Dodge by day and Dodge by night are different
towns;" and, then he goes on with more abuse too vile and
untruthful to mention. Our brother from Hays City must indeed have
been hard hit, but must not have visited any good spot in Dodge
City, but, on the contrary, must have confined himself entirely to
the very lowest places and worst society in Dodge.
Birds of a feather, you know, will flock together. We hope his
dose was a mild one-though he does not deserve our sympathy.
Besides this generally sensational mode of writing up the town,
Dodge City was the theme of many lurid stories and sulphurous
jokes which tended, no less than the write-ups, to establish her
position, in the public eye, as the "Wickedest Town in America."
The following letter is from the "Washington, D. C., Evening
Star," January 1st, 1878.
"Dodge City is a wicked little town. Indeed, its character is so
clearly and egregiously bad that one might conclude, were the
evidence in these later times positive of its possibility, that it
was marked for special Providential punishment. Here those nomads
in regions remote from the restraints of moral, civil, social, and
law enforcing life, the Texas cattle drovers, from the very
tendencies of their situation the embodiment of waywardness and
wantonness, end the journey with their herds, and here they loiter
and dissipate, sometimes for months, and share the boughten
dalliances of fallen women. Truly, the more demonstrative portion
of humanity at Dodge City gives now no hopeful sign of moral
improvement, no bright prospect of human exaltation; but with
Dodge City itself, it will not always be as now. The hamlet of
today, like Wichita and Newton farther east in the state, will
antagonize with a nobler trait, at some future day, its present
outlandish condition. The denizen of little Dodge City declares,
with a great deal of confidence, that
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the region around about the place is good for nothing for
agricultural purposes. He says the seasons are too dry, that the
country is good for nothing but for grazing, and that all they
raise around Dodge is cattle and hell. The desire of his heart is
the father of the statement. He is content with just what it is,
and he wants that to remain.
He wants the cattle droves and his associations and surroundings
to be a presence and a heritage forever." Referring to this
article, the Ford County "Globe," of January 1St, 1878, says: "We
think this correspondent had a sour stomach when he portrayed the
wickedness of our city. But we must expect it unless we ourselves
try to improve the present condition of things. There is not a
more peaceful, well-regulated, and orderly community in the
western country;" and then, as the office boy entered to say that
somebody wanted to see him, he took his bowie knife between his
teeth, put a Colt's new pattern six-shooter on his desk in front
of him, and then said: "Jim, get out another coffin, a plain one
this time, and let the critter come in." About thirty miles from
Dodge the train stopped at a little station, and a cowboy got on,
very drunk, and fully equipped in chapps, spurs, six-shooter, and
quirt.
The conductor, John Bender, asked him his fare and destination. He
replied, "I want to go to hell!" Bender said, "All right; give me
a dollar and get off at Dodge." Thus Dodge City's evil reputation
became established, whether deserved or undeserved. People living
at a distance and having no way of knowing where truth ended and
falsehood began, naturally gave credence to all reports they saw
published, until, in places remote, the very name of Dodge became
a synonym for all that was wild, reckless, and violent. Strangers,
approaching the town for the first time, did so with dread,
entered it with fear and trembling, or passed through it with a
sigh of relief as its last roof was left behind. Tales of the fate
of tenderfeet in the border city struck terror to the
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soul of many a newcomer in the community, and the dangers
apprehended by these new arrivals on the dreaded scene, were
limited only by the amount of courage, credulity, and imagination
they possessed. To illustrate, a young man, going west with a
party of movers, wrote a card to his father back east, just before
reaching Dodge City, not mailing it till after passing through.
Here is what he wrote while anticipating the entrance into the
dreaded town:
"In Camp Fifteen Miles from Dodge, May 7, 1877.
"Dear Father:.
"As I've a little time I'll drop you a card, so you can see we are
all well and headed west. Have laid over here to wait for a larger
crowd so as to be perfectly safe going through Dodge. There are
nine teams now and will be three more in the morning, so we will
be safe anyway. There are a good many coming back from Colorado
but that don't discourage us any. That is no sign we can't do
well. Everything goes on as nice as clock work among ourselves;
not a word as yet and no hard feelings.
"HERBERT."
In somewhat sarcastic comment upon this postal card, the 'Dodge
City Times," of May 19th, 1877, says:
"The card was
evidently written while awaiting reinforcements to assist in
making a charge through our city, but not mailed until they had
run the gauntlet and halted to take a breath at a safe distance on
the west side.
To the father and friends who are no doubt anxiously waiting to
know if our blood-thirsty denizens exterminated the caravan, we
can say that they escaped us without a serious loss of life." What
made Dodge City so famous was that it was the last of the towns of
the last big frontier of the United States. When this was settled,
the frontier was gone, it was the passing of the frontier with the
passing of the buffalo, and the Indian question was settled
forever.
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Here congregated people from the east, people from the south,
people from the north, and people from the west. People of all
sorts, sizes, conditions, and nationalities; people of all color,
good, bad, and indifferent, congregated here, because it was the
big door to so vast a frontier. Some came to Dodge City out of
curiosity; others strictly for business; the stock man came
because it was a great cattle market, and here, on the Arkansas
river, was the place appointed for the cattle going north to be
classed and passed on, for bargains to be closed, and new
contracts made for next year; the cowboy came because it was his
duty as well as delight, and here he drew wages and spent them;
the hunter came because it was the very heart of the greatest game
country on earth; the freighter came because it was one of the
greatest overland freight depots in the United States, and he
hauled material and supplies for nearly four hundred miles,
supplying three military posts, and all the frontier for that far
south and west; last but not least, the gambler and the bad man
came because of the wealth and excitement, for obscene birds will
always gather around a carcass.
Money was plentiful and spent lavishly, and here let me say, there
are different classes of men who are producers or money-makers,
and misers, up to a certain amount. There were numbers of people,
to my certain knowledge, who would carefully save up from two
hundred to five hundred dollars, and then come to Dodge City and
turn it loose, never letting up until every dollar was gone. There
were others whose ambition was higher.
They would save up from five hundred to two thousand dollars, come
to Dodge City and spend it all. ' There were still others who
would reach out to five thousand dollars and upwards, come to
Dodge, and away it would all go, and, strange to say, these men
went back to their different avocations perfectly satisfied. They
had started out for a good time and had had it, and went back
contented.
Indeed, one man started with twenty thousand dollars
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for New York, struck Dodge City, spent the most of his twenty
thousand, and went back to begin over again.
He said: "Oh, well, I did start to have a good time in New York,
but I tell you, you can make New York anywhere if you only have
the money and the luxuries and attractions are there." And these
all could be had for the price, in Dodge City. There were women,
dance halls, music, saloons and restaurants, equipped with every
luxury, while gambling in every conceivable form, and every
gambling device known at that time was in full blast.
I will now say something of the business of early Dodge, which has
been mentioned as being tremendous.
At that time we were often asked, "What sustains your city?"
"Where does your trade come from?" and many such questions, which
no doubt, will recur to the mind of the reader, at the present
time. First and foremost of our industries was the cattle and
stock trade, with its buying, selling, and shipping for the whole
southwestern range, and which lasted till other railroads extended
into this territory' and cut off the trade from Dodge City.
Then there was the government freight business, with Dodge the
point of supply to many military posts and their garrisons, in the
surrounding wilderness. This, alone, was heavy traffic, while
local and general freighting, to ranches, inland settlements, and
hunters' camps, was an important addition to this line of
business. Again, as Dodge City was the point of supply, in all
general commodities, for so vast a section of country, the
mercantile business promptly assumed enormous proportions.
One of Dodge City's great industries was the bone trade. It
certainly was immense. There were great stacks of bones, piled up
by the railroad track-hundreds of tons of them. It was a sight to
see them. They were stacked up way above the tops of the box cars,
and often there were not sufficient cars to move them. Dodge
excelled in bones, like she did in buffalo hides, for there were
more than ten times the number of carloads shipped
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out of Dodge, than out of any other town in the state, and that is
saying a great deal; for there was a vast amount shipped from
every little town in western Kansas.
The bones were a godsend to the early settler, for they were his
main stock in trade for a long, long time;
and, if it had not been for the bone industry, many poor families
would have suffered for the very necessaries of life. It looked
like a wise dispensation of Providence.
Many poor emigrants and settlers came to Kansas with nothing but
an old wagon and a worse span of horses, a large family of
helpless children, and a few dogs-nothing else. No money, no work
of any kind whatever to be had, when, by gathering buffalo bones,
they could make a living or get a start. Game was all killed off
and starvation staring them in the face; bones were their only
salvation, and this industry saved them. They gathered and piled
them up in large piles, during the winter, and hauled them to
Dodge at times when they had nothing else to do, when they always
demanded a good price.
This industry kept us for many years, and gave the settler a
start, making it possible for him to break the ground from which
he now raises such large crops of wheat, making him rich and
happy. Yes, indeed! Many of our rich farmers of today, once were
poor bone pickers, but if they hear this, it don't go. Certainly,
this was a great business, as well as a godsend, coming at a time
when the settlers most needed help. All this added to the wealth
and prosperity of Dodge, and added to its fame.
"Buffalo bones are legal tender in Dodge City," was the strolling
paragraph in all the Kansas exchanges.
As to the magnitude of the early day mercantile business of Dodge
City, the writer can speak, at any length, from his own
experience, as he followed that line, there, for many years. As an
introduction to the subject, I'll give a clipping from the "Ford
County Globe," of 1877, entitled, "Wright, Beverly & Company's
Texas Trade." Now one of the editors, Mr. Morphy, was a bitter
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enemy of the writer, who was head of the firm of Wright & Beverly,
because he abused the writer so maliciously and scandalously and
lied so outrageously about him, when the writer was running for
the legislature, that the latter whipped him on the street; for
which, Morphy sued the writer for ten thousand dollars. The jury
awarded a damage of four dollars and a half for the plaintiff's
doctor bill, and they hung out, for a long time against giving
anything, until the judge instructed them they must render a
verdict for that amount, as Mr. Morphy had clearly proven that he
had paid the doctor four dollars and a half, as a result of the
whipping; so you' can see, he would not give the firm any too much
praise, in writing them up. He says:
"Those gentlemen do an immense business and make a specialty to
cater to the immense Texas trade. The jingling spur, the carved
ivory-handled Colt, or the suit of velveteen, and the many, many
other Texas necessaries, you here find by the gross or cord. An
upstairs room, thirty by seventy-five feet, is devoted entirely to
clothing and saddlery. In their warehouses and yard, it is no
uncommon thing to find from sixty to eighty thousand buffalo robes
and hides. This house also does a banking business for the
accommodation of its customers. Mr.
John Newton, the portly and benevolent charge de affairs of the
office, will accommodate you with five dollars or five thousand
dollars, as the case may be. We generally get the former amount.
Mr. Samuels, who has special charge of the shooting irons and
jewelry stock, will entertain you in Spanish, German, Russian, or
Hebrew. The assistance of Mr. Isaacson, the clothier, is demanded
for parrle vous, while Bob, himself, has to be called on when the
dusky and dirty 'child of the setting sun' insists on spitting and
spouting Cheyenne and Arapahoe and goes square back on the king's
English. They employed over a dozen outside men to check off the
wagons that were loading, and their sales were on an average of a
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thousand dollars a day, Sundays not excepted, or three hundred and
fifty thousand dollars a year, and several years it was over four
hundred thousand dollars." There was no article you could mention
we did not handle.
Our remittances to banks in Leavenworth were frequently as high as
fifty thousand dollars. This was owing to stock men depositing
their whole pile with us, and drawing against it as they needed
it. We have had parties leave with us endorsed, certified checks,
as high as fifty thousand dollars each, to pay for cattle or close
some deal for them. Strange to say, there was but little currency
in circulation, and, nothwithstanding the railroad agent was
instructed to turn over his receipts of greenbacks, and take our
check for same, we had to have shipped to us, by express, from two
thousand dollars to five thousand dollars in currency every few
days.
The Santa Fe railroad was another great factor in making the
wealth and splendid prosperity of Dodge City.
Indeed, it was the first cause of the development of Dodge City's
greatness. It was this road, you might say, that made us. It, at
least, gavel us a big start. Hundreds of its employees made it
their home from the very beginning. Dodge was not only its
terminus, for awhile, but it always has been the end of a
division. The officers of the road and the people of the town have
always enjoyed great harmony. They have treated us justly and
kindly, favoring us whenever and in whatever way they could, and,
in return and to show them gratitude, the Dodge people have worked
right in with them; and never have they been at outs, or has the
least thing ever arisen which would lessen the friendship between
them. Even yet, (1913), the railroad company is making great
improvements in buildings, grades, yardage, etc., at Dodge City.
Another great feature belonging to Dodge City, and which brought
many people there at an early date, is its beautiful, health
giving climate and pure air. It was, and is, a great resort for
invalids afflicted with the white
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plague. This should be the stopping off place for all those badly
afflicted with this dread disease, as the great change in
altitude, from lowlands to mountains, is often to sudden. I have
known many people to stop off here until they got accustomed to
light air and great altitude, and then go on to the mountains,
and, in time, be completely cured. Others would stop only a short
time and take the consequences. Others, after a short stay here,
would feel so much better they would return home, thinking they
were cured, and make a grand mistake. A lovely lady, the wife of
one of Missouri's greatest lawyers, stopped off here a short time,
and her health improved so wonderfully that she went back to
Missouri, but we heard of her death a short time afterwards. I
have known several parties who would receive so great a benefit
from a short stay in Dodge, they would insist, against the wishes
of their doctor and friends, on going on to the mountains, and
come back, in a few weeks, in a box, or return to die among their
eastern friends. You see, they did not stay in Dodge long enough
to get used to the great altitude of the mountains.
Dodge City was conspicious in the sight of newspaper men, and
complimentary notices of its business men were often unique. For
instance, the "Walnut City Blade," says: "The gentlemen of Dodge
City are wholesouled fellows and fine business men. Although our
acquaintance was limited, we can say that Sutton, Whitelaw,
Winnie, Gryden, Bob Wright, Shinn, Klaine, and Frost are each a
whole team with a mule colt following." As an instance of the
splendid liberality of Dodge City in times of emergency, as
already mentioned, its response to Governor St. John's petition
for the cyclone sufferers has been given. Another instance, among
any number that might be given, was the conduct of Dodge City
toward the yellow fever situation, in Memphis, Tennessee, in 1878.
September 10th, of that year, a mass meeting was called for the
purpose of alleviating the suf-
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ferers of Memphis from the terrible yellow fever scourge.
The people only had a few hours' notice of the meeting, but, in
such short time, two or three hundred gathered. A few speeches
were made by some of our prominent citizens, when Mr. P. L. Beaty
jumped upon a stand and said: "I have been a victim of this yellow
fever, and know how these people in the South suffer; here's what
talks I" at the same time throwing a ten dollar bill into the hat,
amidst wildest enthusiasm. Other speeches followed, while
contributions flowed into the hat in splendid style, the poor
bootblack dropping in his nickel, and the rich merchant his ten
dollar bill. The total amount collected was over three hundred
dollars, which was promptly forwarded to the Howard Association of
Memphis. Instances of charity equal to that of Dodge City are as
scarce on the records as, elsewhere, the rarity of Christian
charity is plentiful. Hurrah, for little Dodge! She is still bad
in war, good in peace, and has a: bigger heart, for her size, than
any town in Kansas. A short time after this meeting, it was found
that the terrible scourge of yellow fever still held Memphis in
its grip; and at another mass meeting to relieve the suffering,
Dodge City sent more than double the former amount.
This puts me in mind of a little priest, by the name of Father
Swineberg, who was a little fellow with a big heart, with charity
for all and malice toward none, no matter what the denomination.
He was very highly educated, could speak fluently more than a
half-dozen different languages, and visited Fort Dodge to look
after his flock and minister to the wants of his people, years
before Dodge City was established. It was the writer's happy luck
to be able to accommodate him several times, in driving him from
one post to another, looking after the needs of the church and
his ministerial duties, and, in that way, the writer and he
became warm friends.
In the course of time, he called on me at the fort, armed with
letters to the commanding officer of Fort
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Dodge, and instructing said officer to give Father Swineberg all
the assistance in his power. His objective point was way down in
old Mexico, across the borders of that unknown region, those days,
of New Mexico, Arizona, and old Mexico, a distance from Fort
Elliott, his starting point, of over one thousand miles. It was a
desert, entirely unknown, in those days, without water, wood, or
habitations, or civilization of any kind. His stock of trade was
splendid maps of the region he was to traverse, encased in an
oil-cloth covered tin tube. I, being familiar with the terrible
dangers and privations he would have to undergo, from lack of food
and water, exposure to the elements both heat and cold, as well as
the terrible storms that visited that country, and some big rivers
to cross, tried to persuade him to desist. I told him it was as
much as his life was worth-that he must not go. He said he had to
go. I asked him, why. Shrugging his shoulders, like a Frenchman
would, he said: "Because my bishop ordered me." The commanding
officer at Fort Elliott fitted out Father Swineberg and another
priest, who was to be his traveling companion, with two fine
horses, what grub they could conveniently carry, and blankets.
They had no arms of any kind or description except knives; they
said they didn't need any. Remarkable to relate, they made the
trip, accomplished their object, and came back safely. Father
Swine berg told me that they enjoyed the trip. That once, when
they were in one of the greatest straits and lost without food or
water, they ran into a very large band of Indians, who received
them kindly, and several of the band understood Spanish and some
understood French. They stayed with the Indians about a week,
preaching alternately in French and Spanish, which a good many of
the Indians seemed to understand and en joy and appreciate.
Now comes my yellow fever episode which reminded me of
this story. When the great call was made from the
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South to the North, for aid and nurses to subdue the terrible
scourge, Father Swineberg, with twenty-odd other priests, nobly
responded, well knowing they were going to their death. Very few
ever returned, and Father Swineberg was among the number that went
down. His was a noble life.
There was a society known as "The Orients," in Dodge City, with
charitable work as its real object, and fun as a side line. A few
disparaging remarks, made by a young blood who desired membership,
subjected the individual to a "side degree," upon which lavish
hand performed all sorts of excruciating tricks, which were absurd
and ridiculous. When it came to ridicule, the old-timer was not
sparing in punishment.
The greatest excitement ever caused in Dodge was the advent of an
Indian, one of the principal chiefs of the Cheyennes. In the
winter of 1872, W. D. Lee, of the firm of Lee & Reynolds, doing a
large business at Supply as freighters, government contractors,
sutlers, and Indian traders combined, brought this Indian to Dodge
City to show him the wonders of the railroad and impress upon him
how civilization was advancing. There happened to be several
hunters in town at that time, driven in by a heavy storm and snow.
No sooner did the Indian make his appearance on the street than
the excitement began.
Most of the hunters hated an Indian, and not a few of them
had suffered more or less from their depredations.
Among the latter was one Kirk Jordan, a very desperate man, whose
sister, brother-in-law, and whole family had been wiped out by the
savages, and their home and its contents burned and every vestige
of stock stolen. This had happened in the northwest part of the
state. Jordan had sworn to kill the first Indian he saw, no matter
what the consequences might be. He was a "leader and a favorite
with the hunters, and, together with his companions, being
inflated with liquor, had no trouble in getting followers. We ran
the Indian into a drug-store and locked
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the doors. There was no egress from the rear, but two families
occupied houses adjoining the drug-store, and someone quickly tore
off one of the upright partition boards that separated the drug
store from the dwellings containing the families, and the Indian
squeezed through. The board was quickly and neatly replaced,
leaving no trace of its having been removed; so when the crowd of
excited hunters burst into the store and could not find the
Indian, they were as puzzled a lot as ever lost a trail upon open
prairie.
That afternoon I thought things had quieted down, and I saddled
one of Lee's finest horses (Lee had brought up a magnificent
team), and led it around to the back door-of course the Indian had
been previously instructed to mount and make for his tribe as fast
as the horse would carry him; but before I rapped at the door II
looked around, and from the back of the dance hall, a hundred
yards distant, there were fifty buffalo guns leveled at me.
I knew those fellows had nothing against me, but I was afraid some
of the guns might go off by accident, and wished right there that
the ground would sink down deep enough to cover me from the range
of their guns. I led the horse back to the stable as quickly and
quietly as possible, feeling relieved when inside. I at once
dispatched a courier to the commander at the fort, with the
request that he send up a company of cavalry, but he wouldn't do
it. As soon as it got dark, Lee and I got in his carriage, loaded
with buffalo-robes, had the Indian rushed out, robes piled on top
of him, and went out of Dodge on the run. Wernet Captain Tupper's
troop of the Sixth United States cavalry about a mile out, coming
after the chief. There were no more Indians seen in Dodge except
under big escort.
The following rules were posted in one of the Dodge City hotels
for the guidance of guests (some say rules were stolen from Mark
Twain's hotel).
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HOTEL RULES
These are the rules and regulations of this hotel. This house will be considered
strictly intemperate. None but the brave deserve the fare. Persons owing
bills for board will be bored for bills. Boarders who do not wish to pay in
advance are requested to advance the pay. "Borders are requested to wait on the
colored cook for meals. "Sheets will be nightly changed once in six
months, oftener if necessary. Boarders are expected to pull off their boots if
they can conveniently do so. Beds with or without bedbugs. All moneys and
other valuables are to be left in charge of the proprietor. This is insisted upon, as
the will be held responsible for no losses."
|
And now follows an early day market report:
DODGE CITY MARKETS
(Corrected weekly by Wright, Beverly & Company).
Dodge City, Kansas, Jan. 5th, 1878.
Flour, per 100
lbs. | $ | 2.50 | @ | 4.00 |
Corn Meal, per 10O lbs. | 2.00 | | |
Oats, per bu. | .45 | | |
Corn, per bu. | .56 |
Hides, Buffalo, per lb. | .03¾ | @ | .04¾ |
Wolf | .75 | @ | 1.25 |
Coyote | .30 | @ | .5 |
Skunks | .10 | @: | .50 |
Chickens, dressed, per lb. | .10 | | |
Turkeys, per lb. | 12½ | | |
Potatoes, per bu. | .1.40 | | |
Apples, dried, per lb. | .08 | @ | .10 |
Peaches, dried, per lb. | 12½ | @ | 10 |
Bacon, per lb. | 12@ | | |
Hams, per lb. | .15 | @ | .17 |
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Lard, per lb. | .12 | @ | .14 |
Beef, per lb. | .08 | @ | .16 | |
Butter, per lb. | .30 | @@ | .35 |
Eggs, per doz. | .35 | | |
Salt, per bbl. | 4.50 | | |
Coffee, per lb. | .25 | @ | .26 |
Tea,perlb. | .80 | @ | 1.26 |
Sugar, per lb. | .12 | @ | .14 |
Coal Oil, per gal. | .50 | | |
Coal, per ton | 9.00 | @ | 10.00 |
I give this market report to show the difference between then, 1878, and now.
The lexicographers of today should credit Dodge City with contributions to our
language, as ertain significations or meanings of three words, now very much used,
can be traced to our early philologists. The words are "stinker," "stiff," and
"joint." These words are not considered the sweetest nor most elegant in the
language, by our institutions of learning nor in the realms of culture and
refinement, yet they are very expressive and are warranted by sufficient use. The
word "stinker", or rather the signification in which it is used when applied to a
person in a contemptuous way, originated in this way. In the early days of this
country, the buffalo or bison densely populated the plains. The killing of this
noble animal for the hide was a great industry, and it was nothing uncommon for the
buffalo hunter to get a stand on a herd and kill scores of them in a very short
time. Such occurrences were sometimes in winter, and, before the hunters could skin
all the animals, the carcasses would freeze and he would be compelled to leave many
frozen on the prairies. When the weather moderated and the carcasses thawed,
newcomers or "tenderfeet," as we called them, would skin them for the hides. Natural
causes and decay would render such hides very inferior and almost worthless, and,
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as these thrifty beneficiaries of the prowess of the genuine buffalo hunter were
despised by him, the name "stinker" was originated and applied to him, and the word
has since supplied the vocabulary of many, when their systems were surcharged with
contempt and hatred. The word "stiff," as applied to people in a contemptuous way,
originated in Dodge City. The readers of this book will gather from this record of
the early history of Dodge City, the fact that the lifeless remains of people were a
common sight here, in those days, and veneration and respect for the dead was
somewhat stinted, unless some tie of friendship or relationship existed with the
departed. As the lifeless body of a human being soon becomes rigid, our philologists
substituted the easily spoken word "stiff" for the ghostly word} "corpse," in
referring to the dead in which they had no special interest, and, from this, the
word received an appropriate application to such people as suggest death or
worthlessness, or, in other words, "dead ones." A very common signification or
meaning of the word "joint" is easily traced to Dodge City, and I here submit my
proof. I quote from an edition of the Dodge City Times, dated June 2nd, 1877:
Washington, D. C., May 17, '77.
Editor Dodge City Times:
"I trust you will not take this, from its postmark outside, as being an
appointment to a lucrative official position.
"Such is not the case. I write to the far West seeking information. I see, at times,
in your sprightly paper, the use of the term or terms, 'go to the joint,' or 'gone
to the joint,' etc. "Will you please inform me what it means?
"Yours, INQUIRER."
"We are always willing to give the people of Washington City any information they
may desire on matters
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of public interest. In order that the president and his cabinet may get a clear
idea of this grave question, we wi!l endeavor to be explicit. Gilmore, on municipal
elections, page 77, says, "The gang got to the joint in good shape.' This is the
best authority we have. As an instance more easily understood by the average
Washingtonian, suppose Hayes and Morton should get on a bender and put their jewelry
in soak for booze, then it would be appropriate to say they 'got to the joint' by
this means.
For further particulars, address,
"L. McGLUE."
I remember well the first child born in Dodge. Early in the morning, a young doctor
came into the only drug store in Dodge, with a look of thorough disgust on his
countenance, saying, "My God! I did something last night that I never thought is
possible to fall to my lot, and I am so ashamed that I never will again practice in
Dodge. I delivered an illegitimate child from a notorious woman, in a house of
prostitution." The druggist and I both laughed at him and told him he must not think
of leaving the profession for such a little thing as that; he must keep right on and
fortune would sure follow, as it was a great field for his profession, and we knew
he was fully capable; and so he did, and has become one of the most prominent, as
well as skillful physicians, not only of Dodge City, but the whole state of Kansas.
This was in the fall of 1872. Soon after, followed the birth of Claude, son of Dr.
T. L. and Sallie McCarty; and close after him, Jesse Rath was born, son of Charles
and Carrie Rath, who died in infancy. So Claude McCarty can well claim the
distinction of being the first legitimate child born in the town, and the eldest
native.
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