CHAPTER I.
The Country, Time, and Conditions that Brought About Dodge City
DODGE CITY is situated on or near the hundredth meridian. It is just three
hundred miles in a direct western line from the Missouri river, one hundred and
fifty miles south from the Nebraska line, fifty miles north of the Oklahoma line,
and one hundred miles from Colorado on the west. As the state is just four hundred
miles long and two hundred wide, it follows that Dodge City is located in the direct
center of the southwestern quarter, or upon the exact corner of the southwestern
sixteenth portion of Kansas. By rail it is three hundred and sixty-three miles from
Kansas City, Missouri, toward the west. Dodge City was laid out in July, 1872, under
the supervision of Mr. A. A. Robinson, chief engineer of the Atchison, Topeka &
Santa Fe Railroad, and, for many years afterwards, general manager of that road, and
a more pleasant gentleman I never met. The town company consisted of Colonel Richard
I. Dodge, commander of the post at Fort Dodge, and several of the officers under
him. R. M. Wright was elected president of the town company, and Major E. B. Kirk,
quartermaster at Fort Dodge, was made secretary and treasurer. Dodge City was
located five miles west of Fort Dodge, on the north bank of the Arkansas River. The
Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad reached Dodge City in the early part of
September the same year, and the town was practically the terminus of the road for
the next few months, when it reached out to Sargent, on the state line. Meanwhile,
what a tremendous business was done in Dodge City! For months and months there was
no time when one could get through the place on account of the blocking of the
streets by hundreds of wagons-freighters, hunters
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and government teams. Almost any time during the day, there were about a hundred
wagons on the streets, and dozens and dozens of camps all around the town, in every
direction: Hay was worth from fifty to one hundred dollars per ton, and hard to get
at any price. We were entirely without law or order, and our nearest point of
justice was Hays City, ninety-five miles northeast of Dodge City. Here we had to go
to settle our differences, but, take it from me, most of those differences were
settled by rifle or six-shooter on the spot. Hays City was also the point from which
the west and southwest obtained all supplies until the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe
Railroad reached Dodge. All the freighters, buffalo hunters and wild and woolly men
for hundreds of miles gathered there. It was a second Dodge City, on a smaller
scale. Getting drunk and riding up and down the sidewalks as fast as a horse could
go, firing a six-shooter and whooping like a wild Indian, were favorite pastimes,
exciting, innocent and amusing. At this place lived a witty Irishman, a justice of
the peace, by the name of Joyce. One day, near Hays City, two section-hands (both
Irish) got into an altercation. One came at the other with a spike hammer. The other
struck him over the head with a shovel, fracturing his skull and instantly killing
him. There was no one present. The man who did the deed came in, gave himself up,
told a reasonable story, and was very penitent. Citizens went out and investigated
and concluded it was in self-defense. When the Irishman was put on trial, Justice
Joyce asked the prisoner the usual question, "Are you guilty or not guilty?"
"Guilty, your honor," replied the prisoner. "Shut up your darned mouth," said Joyce;
"I discharge you for want of evidence." Many couples did Justice Joyce make man and
wife, and several did he divorce. He went on the principle that one who had the
power to make had also the power to unmake. Many acts did he perform that, although
not legal, were witty, and so many snarls
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were made in consequence that, after the country be came civilized, the
legislature was asked for relief, and a bill was passed legalizing Justice Joyce's
acts. Such is a sample of early day justice, and a glance at other phases of life on
the plains, in early days, will make clear the conditions that made possible a town
like Dodge City. During the '50'S overland travel had become established, and
communication between the Missouri River and Santa Fe, New Mexico, and Denver,
Colorado, was regularly kept up, in the face of many dangers and difficulties. I
made my first overland trip with oxen in the year 1859, reaching the town of Denver
in May. Three times after that I crossed the plains by wagon and twice by coach. My
second trip was made in war times, in the spring of 1863, when guerrilla warfare was
rife in Kansas. I witnessed some evidences of the guerrillas in the work of Jim and
Bill Anderson, hard characters from Missouri who, at the commencement of the war,
had taken to the brush.
It happened like this: Traveling along I noticed that the
country was dotted with bare chimneys and blackened ruins of houses along the old
Santa Fe trail, from a few miles west of Westport to Council Grove. The day we
reached Council Grove, two men rode in on fine horses and, dismounting, one of them
said: "I expect you know who we are, but I am suffering the torments of hell from
the toothache, and if you will allow me to get relief we will not disturb your town;
but if we are molested, I have a body of men near here who will burn your town."
These men, I learned afterwards, were Bill Anderson and Up. Hays. A friend by the
name of Chatfield with his family, and I with my family, were traveling together. We
drove about ten miles from Council Grove that day, and camped with an ox train going
to Santa Fe. Chatfield and I had a very large tent between us. That night, about
midnight, during a heavy rainstorm, these two men with about fifty others rode up
and dismounted, and as many of them
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as could enter our tent crowded in and asked for water. We happened to have a
large keg full. After they drank, they saw that our wives as well as ourselves were
much frightened, and they said: "Ladies, you need not be frightened; we are not
making war on women and children, but on 'blue coats.'" When we reached Diamond
Springs we saw what their purpose was. They had murdered the people and burned their
houses. The place, indeed, presented a look of desolation and destruction. Not a
living thing could be seen about the premises and we were too scared to make an
investigation. We learned afterward it was an old grudge they had against these
people. Various government posts were established along the trails for the
protection of travelers and settlers, and the quelling of numerous Indian outbreaks.
Fort Aubrey, Bent's Fort, and Fort Atkinson, were among the earlier posts, and Fort
Larned, Fort Supply, Fort Lyon, and Fort Dodge were familiar points to the
inhabitants of the plains before the establishment of Dodge City. Fort Lyon was in
eastern Colorado, and was first established in 1860, near Bent's Fort on the
Arkansas, but was newly located, in 1867, at a point twenty miles distant, on the
north bank of the Arkansas, two and one-half miles below the Purgatory River. Fort
Larned was established October 22, 1859, for the protection of the Santa Fe trade, on
the right bank of the Pawnee Fork, about seven miles above its mouth. Fort Dodge was
located in 1864, and the site for its location was selected because it was where the
wet route and the dry route intersected. The dry route came across the divide from
Fort Larned, on the Pawnee, while the wet route came around by the river, supposed to
be about fifteen miles further. The dry route was often without water the whole
distance, and trains would lay up to recruit after making the passage, which caused
this point on the Arkansas River to become a great camping ground. Of course the
Indians found this out, to their delight, and made it one of their haunts, to pounce
down
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upon the unwary emigrant and freighter. Numerous were their attacks in this
vicinity, and many were their victims. Men were butchered in the most horrible
manner, stock was killed, and women taken into captivity more terrible than death,
and even trains of wagons were burned. Some of the diabolical work I have witnessed
with my own eyes, and will speak of some of it later.
One day a Mexican Indian, or
at least a Mexican who had been brought up by the Indians, came in and said his
train had been attacked at the mouth of Mulberry creek, the stock run off, and
everyone killed but him. This was the first outbreak that spring. We afterward
learned that this Mexican had been taken in his youth and adopted by the Indians,
and had participated in killing his brothers. In fact, he had been sent to the train
to tell them that the Indians were friendly. They captured the train and murdered
everyone in it, without giving them the ghost of a show. The Mexican was then sent
to Fort Dodge to spy and find out what was going on there, because he could speak
Spanish. Major Douglas sent a detachment down, and true enough there lay the train
and dead Mexicans, with the mules and harness gone. The wagons were afterward
burned. The train had passed over the old Fort Bascom trail from New Mexico, a
favorite route, as it was much shorter than the Santa Fe trail and avoided the
mountains, but scarce of water and very dangerous. At last it became so dangerous
that it had to be abandoned. The trail which came into the Arkansas four miles west
of the town of Cimarron had to be abandoned for the same reason.
Many attacks were
made along the route, and three trains that I know of were burned, and several had
to be abandoned and stock driven into the Arkansas River on account of the scarcity
of water. The route was called the "Hornado de Muerti" (the journey of death; very
significant was its name). At one time you could have followed the route, even if
the wagon trail had been obliter-
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ated, by the bleaching bones. There are two places now in Grant or Stevens
county, on the Dry Cimarron, known as Wagon Bed Springs and Barrel Springs. One was
named because the thirsty freighters had sunk a wagon bed in the quick-sand to get
water; and in the other place because they had sunk a barrel. Sixty miles above
where this route came into the Arkansas there was another called the Aubrey route,
which was less dangerous because less subject to Indian attacks, and water was more
plentiful. Colonel F. X. Aubrey, a famous freighter, established this route, and it
became more famous on account of a large wager that he could make the distance on
horseback, from Santa Fe to Independence, Missouri, in eight days. He won the wager,
and had several hours to spare. Colonel Aubrey had fresh horses stationed with his
trains at different places along the whole route. He afterwards made his famous trip
down through the wilds of Arizona and California, accompanied by a single Indian,
and came back to Santa Fe, after a six months' journey, with marvelous stories of
the rich finds he had made. He had the proof with him in the shape of quartz and
nuggets. When some gentleman questioned his veracity, immediately a duel was fought,
in which the Colonel was killed. No money, bribe, threats or coaxing could induce
that Indian to go back and show where these riches lay. He said: "No, I have had
enough. Nothing can tempt me again to undergo the hardships I have endured from want
of food and water and the dangers I have escaped. Death at once would be
preferable."
A few miles east of where the Aubrey trail comes into the Arkansas is
what is known as the "Gold Banks." Old wagon bosses have told me that along in the
early fifties a party of miners, returning from California richly laden, was
attacked by Indians. The white men took to the bluffs and stood them off for several
days and made a great fight; but after a number were killed and the others starved
out for water, they buried their treasure,
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abandoned their pack animals, and got away in the night, and some of the party
came back afterwards and recovered their buried riches. Another version of the story
says that they were all killed before they reached the states. At any rate, long
years ago there were many searches made, and great excitement was always going on
over these bluffs. In 1859 I saw a lot of California miners prospecting in the
bluffs and along the dry branches that put into the Arkansas; and I was told they
got rich color in several places, but not enough to pay. In this vicinity, and east
of the bluffs, is what is named Chateau's Island, named after the great Indian
trader of St. Louis, the father of all the Chateaus. Here he made one of his largest
camps and took in the rich furs, not only of the plains, but of the mountains also.
At this side of the point of Rocks, eight miles west of Dodge City, used to be the
remains of an old adobe fort. Some called it Fort Mann, others Fort Atkinson. Which
is correct I do not know. When I first saw it, in May, 1859, the walls were very
distinct and were in a good state of preservation, excepting the roofs gone. There
had been a large corral, stables, barracks for troops, and a row of buildings which
I supposed were officers' quarters. Who built it, or what troops had occupied it, I
do not know. There were many legends connected with old Fort Mann. Some say that a
large Mexican train, heavily loaded with Mexican dollars, took shelter there from
the Indians, and finally lost all their cattle, and buried their money to keep it
out of the hands of the Indians, and got back to Mexico as best they could. When
they returned, the river had washed all their cache away, and it was never
recovered; but the following is the best information I could gather, and I think it
is the most plausible story: In the '50's, and a long while before, the government
did its own freighting with ox teams. Many a horn have I seen branded "U. S." One of
these trains was on its way back to the states, loaded with ox chains,
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for the simple reason that the government usually sold its wagons after they had
delivered their loads of supplies, at their respective destinations, to the miners,
hunters, and trappers, and turned the cattle over to the commissary for beef. This
would naturally leave a large accumulation of ox chains. Now, this train loaded with
chains met the heavy snowstorm in or near Fort Mann, and they cached their chains at
the fort, and went in with a few light wagons, and the river washed the chains away;
for the banks have washed in several hundred feet since I have known the place.
There was some inquiry made from Washington about Fort Mann, about thirty years ago,
and I remember going with an escort, and, on the sloping hillside north of the fort,
finding three or four graves. Of these, one was that of an officer, and the others
of enlisted men; also two lime-kilns in excellent condition and a well-defined
road leading to Sawlog. In fact, the road was as large as the Santa Fe trail,
showing that they must have hauled considerable wood over it. This leads me to
believe that the fort had been occupied by a large garrison.
Another story, and a
strange one, of very early times deals with the ever interesting subject of buried
treasure, hinting of the possibility of companies being organized to dig for such
treasure, supposed to have been concealed near Dodge City. About four miles west of
Dodge, perhaps many of our readers have noticed a place where the earth seems to
have been, a long time ago, thrown up into piles, holes dug, etc., indicating that
some body of soldiers, hunters, or freighters had made breastworks to defend
themselves against an enemy. We have often noticed this place and wondered if a tale
of carnage could not be told, if those mounds only had mouths and voices to speak.
But we leave this to be explained, as it will be, in the after part of this article,
and will proceed to tell all we have learned of the story, just as it was told in
the early days of Dodge.
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"In the year of 1853, when this country was as wild as the plains of Africa, only
traversed at intervals by tribes of Indians and bands of Mexicans, there were no
railroads running west of St. Louis, and all the freight transmitted by government
was carried over this country by large freighting trains, such as now run between
here and Camp Supply. In the summer of that year, a freighting train consisting of
eighty-two men with one hundred and twenty wagons started from Mexico, across these
plains, for Independence, Missouri, to purchase goods. The whole outfit was in
charge of an old Mexican freighter named Jesus M. Martinez, whom many of the old
plainsmen of thirty years ago will remember. They traveled along what is now known
as the old Santa Fe trail and every night corralled their wagons and kept guards
posted to give the alarm if danger should approach in the way of Indians, bandits or
prairie fires. One evening they halted about sundown, formed the usual corral, and
prepared to rest for the night. Little did they think what that night had in store
for them. They had observed Indians during the day, but the sight of these children
of the plains was no source of annoyance to them, as they had never been troubled
and had seen no hostile manifestations. Some time during the night the men who were
on watch observed objects not far from camp, the dogs commenced making a fuss, and
presently the watchmen became suspicious and aroused old man Martinez. Martinez,
being an old plainsman and understanding the tactics of the Indians, after closely
observing through the darkness, came to the opinion that Indians were lurking
around, and that their intentions were not good. He awoke some of his men and they
held a kind of consultation as to the best course to pursue, and finally decided to
prepare for the worst. They immediately commenced digging trenches and preparing for
defense. The objects around them during all this time seemed to grow more numerous
every moment, and finally could
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be seen on all sides. The Mexicans waited in suspense, having intrenched themselves
as well as possible in ditches and behind piles of dirt. Finally, with yells and shouts,
as is always their custom, the Indians made a dash upon the camp from all sides. The
Mexicans received them like true martyrs, and being well fortified had every advantage.
Their eighty-two guns poured fatal balls into the yelling enemy at every report. The
Indians finally fell back and the Mexicans then hoped for deliverance, but it was like
hoping against fate. The next day the attack was renewed at intervals, and at each
attack the Mexicans fought like demons. For five days the siege continued, a few of the
Mexicans being killed, in the meantime, and many Indians. During the time the Mexicans
had scarcely slept, but what struck terror to their hearts was the consciousness
that their ammunition was nearly gone. On the sixth night the Indians made a more
desperate attack than before. They seemed crazed for blood and vengeance for the
chiefs they had already lost. As long as their ammunition lasted the Mexicans continued
their stern resistance, but powder and lead was not like the widow's oil. It steadily
decreased until none was left. Then their guns were still, and they were swallowed up
like Pharaoh's hosts in the Red Sea, by wild Cheyennes, Arapahoes and Kiowas, who made
deathly havoc with the little handful of brave Mexicans. We need not dwell upon this
scene of butchery, and it is only necessary to relate that but one man is known to have
escaped in the darkness, and that man, somewhat strange to note, was old Jesus M. Martinez.
How he managed to secrete himself we can hardly divine, others might have been carried
away and held captive until death, but he alone never told the story to the pale-face.
The Indians pillaged the train of all the flour, bacon, etc., took the stock, set fire
to some of the wagons, and then, Indianlike, immediately left the field of carnage.
Old Martinez remained in his hiding place until morning and until the Indians
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were miles away, then creeping out he surveyed the remains of what a few days
ago was his jolly, jovial companions. He was alone with the dead.
"As is nearly
always the case with persons when no eye is near, he thought of the valuable, and
knowing that quite an amount of silver was stored in one of the wagons, he searched
and found a portion of it. As near as he remembered, when he related this occurrence
to his son, he founds twenty-one small bags, each one containing one thousand silver
Mexican dollars. These bags he carried some distance from the camp, we cannot
learn exactly how far, or which way, and buried them. He then started out and made
his way on foot back to his old home in Mexico, where, it seems, he died soon
afterwards. But before he died he told his son what we have related above, and
advised him to hunt this treasure. What goes to corroborate this story was the
evidence of Dr. Wilber of Kansas City, who sold goods to these Mexicans and knew of
their having a considerable quantity of silver in their possession.
"Pursuant to his
father's advice young Martinez came up to this country some years after the death of
his father for the purpose of following his instructions. There are two men now
living in this city to whom he revealed the secret, one of whom assisted him in
searching for the buried treasure. From the directions marked out by old Martinez
they found the spot where the massacre took place, about four miles west of Dodge
City--the spot described above, where the pits and dirt piles are still plainly
visible. For days and even weeks young Martinez searched the ground in that vicinity
using a sharpened wire, which he drove into the ground wherever he supposed the
treasure might lie concealed. But he was not successful, and not being of a
persevering nature abandoned the search and remained around Fort Dodge for some
time, when he fell into the habit and became a hard drinker. He finally returned to
Mexico and has not
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been back here since, that we are aware of. After he left, one of the men to whom
he had revealed the secret (and this man now lives in this city) made a partial
search for the treasure. He hired men and after swearing them to secrecy as to what
they were searching for, set them to digging ditches. They found nothing and
abandoned the work." This story, as told above, is an historical fact, and portions
of it have been heretofore published. We can give names of men who know more about
it than we do but by request we do not publish them. This treasure will probably be
found some day, and probably will lie buried forever, and never see the light. No
eye but the Omnipotent's can tell the exact spot where it lies. As we said above, it
is rumored that parties are preparing to institute a search. They may find it and
they may not. We hope they will as it is of no benefit to mankind where it is. It
certainly exists. Such were some of the traces which the feet of the white man left
behind in their first passing over the plains of the southwest. One almost lost
sight of the natural features and attractions of the region, in viewing these
intensely interesting evidences of the beginning of the conquest of the wilds by
civilization. Yet the natural beauties and attractions were there in superlative
degree. An old darkey, living in the Arkansas valley, thus explains how it happened
that the territory of Kansas exists. On being asked by a land looker what he thought
of the country, he said: "Well, sah, when the good Lord made dis whole world, He
found out that He had made a mistake, dat He had not made any garden, so He jest
went to work and made Hisself a garden, and we call it Kansas." And a natural
garden, indeed, in many respects, was the Arkansas valley in southwestern Kansas.
Pages could be filled with descriptions of its beauties without exhausting the
subject. But no less than the charms and interest
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of its physical features, were the charms and interest of other of its natural
attributes, atmospheric peculiarities, for instance, which, as in the blizzard,
arose at times to the height of the grand and terrible. Other phases of atmospheric
conditions, however, peculiar to the great plains in pioneer days, were very
beautiful, and perhaps the best example of such was the mirage. Mirage, Webster
describes as an "optical illusion, arising from an unequal refraction in the lower
strata of the atmosphere, and causing remote objects to be seen double, as if
reflected in a mirror, or to appear as if suspended in the air. It is frequently
seen in deserts, presenting the appearance of water." If I were gifted with
descriptive powers, what wonderful scenes could I relate of the mirage on the plains
of Kansas. What grand cities towering to the skies have I seen, with their palaces
and cathedrals and domed churches, with tall towers and spires reaching almost up to
the clouds, with the rising sun glistening upon them until they looked like cities
of gold, their streets paved with sapphire and emeralds, and all surrounded by
magnificent walls, soldiers marching, with burnished spears and armor! There would
arise at times over all a faint ethereal golden mist, as if from a smooth sea,
shining upon the towers and palaces with a brilliancy so great as to dazzle the
eyes-a more gorgeous picture than could be painted by any artist of the present, or
by any of the old masters. The picture as has presented itself to me I still retain
in good recollection, in its indescribable magnificence. At other times the scenes
would change entirely, and, instead of great cities there would be mountains,
rivers, seas, lakes, and ships, or soldiers and armies, engaged in actual conflict.
So real have such sights appeared to me on the plains that I could not help but
believe they were scenes from real life, being enacted in some other part of the
world, and caught up by the rays of the sun and reflected to my neighborhood, or
perhaps
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that some electrical power had reproduced the exact picture for me. How many poor
creatures has the mirage deceived by its images of water. At times one unacquainted
with its varied whims would be persuaded that it really was water, and would leave
the well-beaten track to follow this optical illusion, only to wander farther from
water and succor, until he dropped down from thirst and exhaustion, never to rise
again, never again to be heard of by his friends, his bleaching bones to be picked
by the coyote, unburied and forgotten. On other occasions you would see immense
towering forests, with every variety of trees and shrubbery. In some places it would
be so dark and lowering, even in the daylight, as to appear dangerous, though one
could not help admiring its gloomy grandeur. Then there would be fair spots of
picturesque beauty, with grottoes and moonlit avenues, inviting you to promenade,
where one seemed to hear the stroke of the barge's oars on lake and river, and the
play of the fountains, and the twitter of the birds. With the trail of the plow,
followed by immigration and civilization, the wonderful mirage is a thing of the
past. It is only now and then that one gets a glimpse of its beauties; its scenes of
magnificence, far beyond any powers of description, I will never see again.